- Start: Chilham Train Station, Chilham, Kent
- Finish: Canterbury Cathedral, Canterbury, Kent
- Distance: 14.39 km
- Time: 6 hours 17 minutes 16 seconds
The day started at Chilham and yesterday’s theme of wealth continued. If the Castle quietly exuded privilege,
the church positively screamed it.
Every corner was crammed with ornate memorials, usually to past owners of the castle.
The one that most appealed was to James Wildman who owned the castle from 1794.
Jane Austen (obviously!) visited the castle frequently and her niece Fanny was destined to marry James. However, James, who obtained most of his wealth from his Jamaican estate, was a friend of William Wilberforce, voted for the emancipation of the slaves and freed his own. He, thus, lost his plantation and had to sell the Castle and didn’t get to marry Fanny. You couldn’t write it! 😂
After Chilham, the Pilgrims Way wended its way through woodland and up hills,
a surprising number actually. I think this was the hilliest day this trip! At the top of one, along with lovely views,
there was a contemplation bench made out of old apple crates from nearby Apple farms, I duly contemplated.
There were a lot of Apples, or at least Apple trees. Canterbury sits in the so-called ‘Fruit Belt’ and the region is said to be responsible for the production of 60-70% of British Apples.
Eventually we reached the marker showing 1 mile to go,
and with it the village of Harbledown.
Harbledown has its own unique place in the history of the Pilgrim’s Way. Not only is it the setting for the final story in the Canterbury Tales, it is also the location of St Nicholas’s hospital.
This private hospital was founded in 1084 by Archibishop Lanfranc as a leper hospital, probably because of the healing powers of the well found in it’s grounds.
It was here in 1174 that Henry II dismounted his horse and took off his fine clothes to walk the remaining distance to the Cathedral as an act of penance. Today pilgrims are allowed to walk in the grounds and view the almshouses and chapel, as long as they stick to the footpaths!
Shortly after we left Harbledown we had our first proper view of the Cathedral.
Then, turning down what is now called London Road, but is in fact a part of Watling Street ( the Roman Road that joined London to Canterbury) we reached St Dunstan’s Church.
This church is the last outside of the city walls and so was a popular pilgrimage stop. Since 1535 it’s greatest relic has been the head of Sir Thomas More, Philosopher, Theologian, sometime Lord Chancellor of England and Catholic Martyr. Beheaded by Henry VIII in 1535 due to his opposition to the reformation.
Finally, we approached the city’s west gate,
and then the cathedral gate,
and then…..the Cathedral itself!
We had finished!
The Cathedral is a fascinating place, steeped in history and as well as being the site of one of the most famous political assassination, there is loads more to see! However I won’t deprive the church of the £19.50(!!!) it costs to get in and will leave you to visit and find out all about it for yourselves.
Statistics – We completed the Pilgrims way from Winchester Catherdral to Canterbury Cathedral in three sections as follows:
Prologue:
- Start: Winchester Cathedral, Winchester, Hampshire
- Finish: Alton Station, Alton, Hampshire
- Dates: 5th and 6th of July 2025
- Distance: 37.25 km
- Time: 11 hours 16 minutes 41 seconds
Actus:
- Start: Alton Station, Alton, Hampshire
- Finish: Halling Station, Halling, Kent
- Dates: 23rd to the 29th August 2025
- Distance: 153.66 km
- Time: 51 hours 38 minutes 0 seconds
Epilogue:
- Start: Halling Station, Halling, Kent
- Finish: Canterbury Cathedral, Canterbury, Kent
- Dates: 2nd to 5th May 2026
- Distance: 85.26 km
- Time: 29 hours 55 minutes 35 seconds
Total:
- Distance: 276.17 km
- Time: 92 hours 50 minutes 16 seconds
- Days: 13 days
This book has been our constant guide on this journey, it is available on Amazon:
