Ridgeway: Day 1

• Start: Thistle Express, Swindon
• Finish: Inn with the Well, Ogbourne St George
• Walking Distance: 22km
• Total Time: 8 hours

Day 1 started fairly smoothly, after a rather inspid takeaway breakfast (Covid precautions) we left the Thistle Express.

A little run-down but clean, and really pleasant staff.

We then proceeded to Swindon Bus station to catch the 49 to Avebury.

The bus was on time, not busy, and though I was strongly reminded of Harry’s Potter’s journey on the Knight Bus on some of the very bendy Wiltshire roads, we managed to arrive safely.

For the first five km we travelled through the Avebury World Heritage Site. We saw Avebury Ring, one of the largest stone henges in Europe, dating from 2,600 BC. It is so big, it encompasses most of the village. Way less touristy than Stonehenge, it is definitely worth a visit.

Next, we saw Silbury Hill, not once but twice!

It is the largest man made prehistoric mound in Europe, dating from 2,400 BC. There are various legends as to how it got there, including the Devil dumping it when defeated by the Wizards of Avebury (he was intending to bury Marlborough with the dirt, apparently?!?) Craig and I reckon that it is more likely the result of the ever-present human desire to show that we can be better than nature!

Druid 1: We can build a really big hill, everyone will be really impressed!

Druid 2: Let’s do it!!

We also saw Silbury hill from afar, this afternoon on the Ridgeway, when it becomes clear how much it dominates the landscape, I rest my case 🙂

Next up, was West Kennet Long Barrow dating from 3,600BC!! It is the largest and most impressive Neolithic chambered tombs in Britain, you can go in apparently and look at the interior of the tomb. I wouldn’t know because it was 200m uphill to get there, which we didn’t need to do and even after only 2.5km, it was apparent that the bags were really heavy!!

Finally, there was the Sanctuary which dates from 3,000 BC. However, this required another detour and once we’d read that the whole site was destroyed in the 18th Century and all that currently existed were concrete blocks showing the original structure, we decided to give it a miss and look at the burial mounds on Overton Hill, dating only from 2,000BC, but described as the seven barrows by both the Romans and the Anglo Saxons. Tom Bombadil anyone?

All in all, it was a fascinating glimpse into our Neolithic past, and given that we are spending the next 8 days walking in their footsteps, a great introduction.

Travelling, through the village of West Kennet, there was a rather more modern but still uplifting message hidden in the village bus stop, which made us smile:-)

Finally, we arrived at the start of the official Ridgeway route. Our journey had truly begun!

Starting to walk on the Ridgeway it is clear how well travelled this route is and has always been, it is carved into the landscape! Burdened as we are with our packs, day trippers and mountain bikers ask us frequently whether we are doing ‘the whole thing!’ We meet a man with his 8 year old son, who were ‘only doing’ two days, which is awesome!

The views are spectacular, even Swindon in the distance looked impressive! Eventually, we stop for lunch at the top of Hackpen Hill, in one of three perfectly circular copses in close proximity, with amazing views over the Wiltshire landscape.

Where we stopped there was evidence of recent witchcraft! I failed to photograph it, may be I was not allowed to. 😛 This is a landscape which still inspires the weird and wonderful.

We also did a brief detour to look at the Hackpen horse, at least Craig did. I decided that walking down a hill to look at a chalk horse that was meant to be viewed from afar, and then walking back up again (whilst actually being chased by real horses :-D) was not worth the effort!

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We continued on round a corner and came face to face with Barbury Castle, a huge Iron age fort dating back at least 2,500 years and occupied until the late Roman Period.

It was magnificent (the photo really doesn’t do it justice), and we really felt for any iron age warriors who attempted to assail this fort on the top of the hill! By this time, the significant gradient was a real challenge even at shuffling pace!

We were however rewarded for the climb. Once the fort was behind us we had a gentle descent, with amazing views of the Marlborough Downs.

Finally, we reached the village of Ogbourne St George, where our hostelry was located.

The Inn with the Well is lovely little village pub with rooms, very well run by Megan and Mike for 30 years. We failed to take a picture of either the pub or the very impressive well (which I hope to rectify tomorrow) and indeed were slightly incoherent when we rocked up due to fatigue, (it is only day 1!!).

Dinner was awesome, for starters we had halloumi sticks and focaccia which went really well with the local real ale.

Then, I had the liver and bacon special.

and Craig had the burger.

Both of which were really nice.

All in all a great start to our adventure!

We are quite tired!

But we are definitely looking forward to Day 2.